Week in review: End of fashion’s eco marketing speak is finally here

The EU's new durability and anti-greenwashing law means the fashion industry can no longer hide behind sweeping statements of “environmentally friendly”, “natural”, “biodegradable” or “climate neutral” without solid proof, so what's next?

Shemona Safaya January 29 2024

The European Union (EU) has officially adopted a law that will see a ban on greenwashing and other environmental claims or so-called 'eco marketing' being plastered across fashion items with a clear shift towards information on how long an item should actually last.

The European Parliament explained this new directive is meant to work together with the green claims directive which is currently being discussed at committee stage in Parliament.

However, multinational accountancy firm KPMG argues this is a positive step but sustainability must go beyond the focus on climate and the role businesses can play in protecting the environment.

It must also support broader issues such as human rights and social responsibility.

Thankfully, progress is being made on that front too. Last week over 30 fashion brands and retailers pledged a yearly contribution of 0.019% of their respective ready-made garment export volume from Bangladesh to support an Employment Injury Scheme (EIS Pilot) which aims to give workers financial protection against workplace injuries and fatalities.

It feels like a broken record by this point as everyone knows the fashion industry must become more transparent in all of its practices from the origins of the fibre that is used to the conditions of the worker that is making the garment. But it does provide an opportunity for brands and retailers to build trust with customers and empower them to make choices aligned with their values.

The EU's latest law's focus on longevity, recyclability, and reduced waste will hopefully mean we'll see all of the talk of a circular economy become a guiding principle for the future of fashion.

Speciality chemicals firm Archroma recently announced a new solution that aims to offer end-product durability while claiming to meet sustainability targets with cleaner chemistries compliant with current and anticipated industry regulations, which could potentially help those wishing to abide by the new durability law.

Last month, the European Parliament reached a provisional agreement on the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation which promises to redefine product standards and make sustainable products the “new norm” in the EU.

This stance could help with making green fashion a necessity rather than an option and steer the industry towards a more sustainable and ethical tomorrow.

However, it should be noted there is still a stark disconnect between fashion suppliers and vendors when it comes to sustainability commitments, with at least 50% of brands and retailers reported to not be engaging with suppliers in their green objectives, according to the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action.

There is still a lot of work to do internally but at least EU legislation is continuing to move the global fashion sector in the right direction.

Just Style’s top stories last week

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Fast fashion giant Shein is facing a cybersecurity probe from the Cyberspace Administration of China as it seeks to go public with a US IPO.

Brands back Bangladesh employment injury scheme to safeguard workers

More than 30 brands and retailers have pledged a yearly contribution of 0.019% of their respective RMG export volume from Bangladesh to support the Employment Injury Scheme (EIS Pilot) which promises Bangladesh workers financial protection against workplace injuries and fatalities.

US failure to enforce UFLPA, de minimis ‘devastating’ apparel sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has urged the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) to step up its enforcement of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) and the de minimis loophole saying it is destroying US apparel manufacturing.

Mango joins H&M, Puma on virtual gaming platform Roblox

Spanish fashion retailer Mango is opening its first store on the Roblox gaming platform, which already features Swedish fashion brand H&M, German sports brand Puma and US apparel brand American Eagle Outfitters.

Macy’s rejects $5.8bn buyout bid in favour of cutting jobs to bolster profit

US retailer Macy's has rejected a $5.8bn proposal for privatisation due to financing concerns but it is cutting its workforce by 3.5%, which an industry expert describes as a short-term strategy that has an "expiry date".

EU green lights directive against greenwashing, misleading claims

The European Union (EU) has adopted a new law to ban greenwashing and other environmental claims with a focus on clearer information especially on the durability of goods to help consumers make better purchasing choices.

BASF, Inditex unveil circular nylon made from 100% textile waste

Chemical and agricultural solutions developer BASF and Spanish fashion company Inditex have announced a “breakthrough” in textile-to-textile recycling with the introduction of loopamid, a nylon material made entirely from textile waste.

Crystal Group ‘planning’ $200m fabric, garment factory in Vietnam

Hong Kong-headquartered garment manufacturer Crystal Group is reportedly looking to build a $200m yarn fabric and garment production facility in the northern province of Nam Dinh, Vietnam.

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