Using fibres previously discarded due to excess straw residue, the new manufacturing method combs the wool and removes plant fibres.

Sweden’s “top tier animal welfare practices” are said to leave excessive plant residue in wool sourced from the country, with more than 50% of all wool produced in the country discarded each year.

More than 1,700 metric tonnes of wool are imported into Sweden annually, in the form of raw wool, carded wool and yarn. This imported wool often has a higher carbon footprint than Swedish wool.

The Swedish Wool Initiative says Swedish fashion and textile brands are increasingly seeking regionally-produced, bio-based and recyclable materials, such as wool.

Klippan Yllefabrik says it has previously rejected Swedish wool containing high levels of vegetable matter, knowing that some of this debris would remain in the fibres even after washing, carding and spinning.

The additional combing step removes the plant residue while also creating a soft, pliable worsted yarn.

Gösta Magnusson, chairman of Klippan Yllefabrik, commented: “Swedish wool has traditionally been relegated to coarser materials and stuffing. This new worsted yarn, however, offers something entirely different – a fine yarn from Swedish wool, crafted in Europe, ideal for sustainable fashion. It’s slightly thinner and perfect for knitting warm sweaters.

“It’s a massive waste of resources to discard Swedish wool simply because it contains excess straw residue. Klippan Yllefabrik has found a solution by combing the wool and removing these plant parts, a step towards a sustainable fashion industry.”

Worsted yarn is manufactured by gently combing wool using a machine. It is typically used for sweaters.

The Swedish Wool Initiative’s project manager Johan Sidenmark added: “This is a prime example of innovation that wouldn’t be possible without uniting the entire value chain, from sheep farms to industry. By aligning Swedish wool processing with industrial needs, we pave the way for sustainable products across various sectors, particularly fashion.”

In 2023, sportwear giant Nike took a significant step towards improving animal welfare by adopting the certified Responsible Wool Standard in its product range.

Humane Society International Australia also shared the latest edition of its ‘Better Wool Guide’, which features more than 200 brands that are part of the growing movement to phase out the controversial practice of mulesing.