Isotopic testing shows ten of 37 garments contain Xinjiang cotton

The US Border and Customs Protection (CBP) has turned to Isotopic testing in its efforts to crack down on garments made with cotton from the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR), which has long been scrutinised for forced labour practices.

Shemona Safaya September 15 2023

News agency Reuters says that ten of the 37 garments collected by CBP in May were returned as "consistent" with Xinjiang-originating cotton as per documents.

Furthering its efforts, the US Customs and Border Protection has turned to Isotopic testing which can link cotton to specific geographic areas by analysing the concentration of stable elements like carbon and hydrogen present in both the crop and the environment it has grown in.

Roughly 27% of tests performed on shoes and garments collected by CBP in May showed links to cotton from China’s Xinjiang region, which has been banned because of concerns over forced labour, according to documents obtained by Reuters under the Freedom of Information Act.

However, Reuters explains that much of the other information on the documents was redacted, including brands of the tested garments. Descriptions of the items detail a range of apparel, from boxers, jeans and t-shirts to baby onesies and dresses. Everything was made up of cotton, sometimes mixed with other textiles such as spandex and rayon.

The US Customs and Border Protection did not respond to Just Style's request for comment at the time of going to press. It did however say, according to Reuters, it believes isotopic testing alone is not enough to clear shipments detained at US ports for suspected links to Xinjiang.

To make enforcement of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) more transparent, CBP launched an interactive dashboard detailing statistics in June 2022.

As per stats, to date, apparel, footwear and textiles have accounted for $31.78m worth of shipments in value or 753 in numbers. Out of which 194 were released, 330 denied and 231 remain pending.

Last week new data from risk intelligence agency Kharon revealed since UFLPA enforcement the value of detained goods from Malaysia and Vietnam is more than six times that of goods imported directly from China suggesting the US crackdown on third-country pass-throughs is gaining steam.

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