Fashion for Good's Feedstock Assessment for Biosynthetic Innovation project addresses the urgent need to move away from virgin fossil-fuel-derived materials. It will focus on identifying and evaluating potential feedstock alternatives sourced from bio-based and CO2-based origins.  

The assessment will be carried out in conjunction with the nova-Institute, which specialises in industry research. The objective is to create a comprehensive overview of feasible methods for producing polymers using these alternative feedstocks. 

Phasing out virgin fossil-fuels in the fashion industry 

The fashion sector currently depends significantly on virgin fossil-fuel-derived polymers, especially synthetic types like polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyamide (PA), ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), and elastane.  

According to the Textile Exchange's 2023 Materials Market Report, polyester constituted 57% of total fibre production, underscoring the industry's reliance on these materials despite their environmental implications. 

The use of fossil-fuel-based polymers carries substantial environmental consequences, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions, pollution, and loss of biodiversity, thereby exacerbating climate change. The need to decrease reliance on non-renewable resources has intensified efforts to find sustainable substitutes. 

Biosynthetic materials present a viable alternative to conventional synthetic fibres. These materials can match or exceed the performance characteristics of traditional fibres while potentially lowering the industry's environmental footprint. However, extensive validation regarding their environmental and technical viability is necessary. 

A significant challenge arises from many current solutions being based on first-generation feedstocks, which are derived directly from food crops or biomass. This creates competition with food production and raises concerns related to land use, scalability, and ethical sourcing. Thorough evaluation of these feedstocks’ impacts, and exploration of alternative options are critical steps toward advancing biosynthetic materials. 

The industry requires validated feedstocks that align with environmental standards and meet technical and regulatory requirements.  

To address this need, Bestseller, Kering, On, Fashion for Good, and nova-Institute are collaborating on a detailed feedstock impact assessment. This study will investigate potential technological pathways for producing sustainable polymers from both bio-based and CO2-based sources. 

Project’s three focus areas

1. Assessing the environmental impact of various feedstocks to minimise the industry's ecological footprint. 

2. Identifying scalable feedstocks that integrate seamlessly with existing manufacturing processes. 

3. Ensuring compliance with ethical and environmental standards expected by consumers and regulators. 

As part of this initiative, nova-Institute will perform an extensive assessment of feedstocks to identify optimal routes for producing polymers such as bio-PET, PA, EVA and elastane. 

The project will conclude with a series of presentations and workshops where partners from Fashion for Good will discuss key parameters related to feedstocks and a comprehensive report detailing the findings from the feedstock assessment. 

It will also include a whitepaper providing strategic guidance for brands and manufacturers on incorporating alternative feedstocks into their supply chains to support a shift towards sustainable polymer utilisation in the fashion industry. 

Earlier this month, Fashion for Good introduced World of Waste, an online global textile waste mapping tool.