Explainer: Will the surge of secondhand change fashion?

As Oxfam announces a new partnership with secondhand marketplace Vinted for a show at London Fashion Week this September, are pre-loved pieces becoming the go-to for consumers?

Rachel Lawler August 30 2024

On 12 September, Oxfam and Vinted will host a fashion show at London Fashion Week, showcasing “the joy and innovation of pre-loved clothing”. All the secondhand looks will be available to purchase on the charity’s Vinted shop.

Vinted will also be supporting Oxfam’s Secondhand September event this year. The annual campaign encourages consumers to choose secondhand clothing in a bid to reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the planet.

In recent years, secondhand fashion has become increasingly popular with consumers.

In May 2024, Vinted reported its first profit and an impressive 61% growth in revenues to a total of €596.3m ($636.3m).

Vinted's success seems to have inspired US-based online marketplace eBay, which announced earlier this year that it would remove fees for individual sellers on preloved fashion items.

eBay said the move was aimed at supporting the circular fashion drive and diverting clothes from landfill but the change brought its policy closer in line with rivals Vinted and Depop.

In June, analysis from climate technology startup Vaayu found Vinted members were choosing to purchase fewer, longer-lasting items of clothing over higher volumes of fast fashion.

At the time, Vinted’s CEO Thomas Plantenga said the findings show second-hand fashion has the potential to become “the first choice” for consumers in Europe.

“These findings encourage us to continue to invest in making second-hand easy and accessible to everyone in society. However, despite this positive trend, second-hand remains a very small part of the fashion market. Thus there is lots of work and potential ahead of us.”

Is the latest partnership with Oxfam for London Fashion Week proof that secondhand is taking over high-end as well as high-street?

Oxfam’s strategic communications lead Kehinde Brown is directing the show. She said in a statement: “Oxfam are thrilled to have Vinted as our partner for our Style for Change fashion show, as part of our Secondhand September campaign this year. Together, we are on a mission to make secondhand fashion mainstream, so it is a wonderful and authentic pairing.

“Our fashion show will be the ultimate display of sustainable fashion, which we hope will inspire people to discover the joys of second-hand clothing. Vinted has captured the mainstream and championed pre-loved fashion like no other online marketplace has, so we can’t think of anyone better to be partnering with to help prove that second-hand does not mean second best and that by embracing pre-loved clothing, individuals can express their personal style while contributing to a larger cause.

“As well as inviting people to shop more consciously to help our planet, Vinted’s support will help us continue to raise money for Oxfam’s life-saving work to tackle poverty and inequality across the world.”

Alice Roberta Taylor, director of communications and chief of staff at non-profit group Global Fashion Agenda told Just Style that digital platforms, including Vinted, are "revolutionising the way consumers engage with fashion.”

She added: “This shift in consumer behaviour can help to push the industry toward more circular business models - encouraging brands to prioritise longevity and quality in their designs.

“As resale markets flourish, we expect a broader transformation in the industry, where circularity is recognised as a business opportunity and becomes an integral part of the fashion ecosystem."

Vinted will also be partnering with Oxfam for ‘Secondhand September’ – a month-long campaign encouraging consumers to reject fast fashion and choose secondhand clothing instead.

Consumers are asked to shop at their local Oxfam stores, donate pre-loved items of clothing and take advantage of the charity’s offer with British retailer Marks and Spencer, which sees consumers offered a £5 M&S voucher when they donate clothing at an Oxfam store.

 Vinted’s senior director of sustainability Marianne Gybels added: “Second-hand is a growing megatrend that helps to spark essential conversations about breaking the norm when it comes to shopping and fashion consumption.

“Partnering with Oxfam for Second Hand September is a fantastic opportunity to advance our shared mission. Together, we can collectively champion the tremendous potential of pre-loved fashion and inspire people to embrace second-hand choices, fostering a shift towards more circular behaviours.”

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