Sustainability and ethical practices are becoming increasingly important in the fashion industry and certifications play an important role in building credibility and trust.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has emerged as a leading certification for organic textiles, offering brands and retailers a way to verify their commitment to environmental and social responsibility.
What is GOTS certification?
The certification is a comprehensive process that ensures the organic status of textiles from the harvesting of raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling.
During a recent live panel discussion at Source Fashion’s trade show Christopher Stopes, the UK representative of GOTS and Natasha Nickson, senior certification officer at Soil Association shared the key aspects of a GOTS certification:
- Requiring organic fibre production to be processed with the least possible environmental impact
- Imposing strict limits on the use of chemicals and other materials
- Incorporating social criteria, such as ensuring good working conditions and prohibiting child labour
- Mandating that GOTS-certified products contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres
- The certification is awarded by independent, third-party certification bodies that inspect and verify compliance with the GOTS standard throughout the supply chain.
Traceability is a key component of the certification. Nickson explained that traceability is achieved through verification, with scope certificates detailing product categories certified for each supplier.
Transaction certificates uphold traceability throughout the supply chain, ensuring that organic status is maintained from farm to finished product.
The GOTS certification process: What brands need to know
Nickson went on to provide more insights into the GOTS certification process by referring to the company website which lists the steps a company should take.
She said brands must first familiarise themselves with the standard to gain an overview of the requirements that must be met for certification.
Once that is done Nickson told brands to reach out to the GOTS representative in their region for an initial consultation and explained how key it is to work closely with a dedicated certification officer who can guide them through the requirements.
Through this companies have their choice of GOTS-approved certification bodies responsible for the on-site audit and certification to GOTS.
Brands and retailers must be prepared to provide detailed documentation on production processes, materials used, and social/environmental compliance, as a traceability audit will take place where the certification body will trace products back through the supply chain to verify compliance.
Nickson warns that achieving a GOTS certification requires significant time and resources but can provide valuable credibility and accountability for brands and retailers.
Communicating certification requirements to suppliers
Effective communication of certification requirements to suppliers is crucial in achieving and maintaining standards like GOTS in the apparel industry. As brands and retailers strive to meet increasingly stringent environmental and social criteria, they must ensure that their entire supply chain is aligned with these standards.
Bonnie Chan, product manager at organic children’s clothing label Little Green Radicals noted: "As brands we have become too comfortable with what our factories give to us," highlighting the need for brands to be more proactive in verifying and improving their supply chains.
Nickson provided some strategies for companies to consider:
- Provide clear, detailed information on certification standards and processes through company websites or direct communication
- Assign a dedicated certification officer to work closely with suppliers, answer their questions, and guide them through the certification process
- Conduct training sessions or workshops to educate suppliers on the certification requirements and help them understand the benefits of achieving certification
- Establish regular check-ins and audits to monitor suppliers' progress and provide support where needed to ensure they meet the certification standards.
Benefits of GOTS certification for fashion brands and retailers
Once a company receives its GOTS Scope Certificate, it can leverage it to showcase its commitment to sustainable and ethical textile productions and be visible on the GOTS public database.
Mark Bloom, founder of eco-conscious fashion clothing and accessories brand Komodo said the best thing for companies to do is “dot all the I’s and cross all the t’s to comply” with the GOTS standard.
Bloom and Chan emphasised that a GOTS certification provided them with increased credibility in the market. As Chan put it, Little Green Radicals wanted to "be recognised as a brand to be certified." The GOTS label which the Little Green Radicals achieved four years ago serves as a stamp of approval to Chan, demonstrating the brand's commitment to sustainability and ethical practices.
Bloom noted the certification was instrumental in helping Komodo expand into European and US markets. Despite Komodo being around 12 to 13 years before a GOTS certification was common, the recognised certification now provides a level of trust that Bloom found crucial for entering new markets and appealing to environmentally conscious consumers.
Chan highlighted that GOTS inspections provided a helpful framework for building a better business. The certification process gives brands "confidence that every part is documented and being monitored," she said, encouraging continuous improvement in sustainability practices.
Both Chan and Bloom agreed GOTS serves as a form of due diligence that verifies a brand's practices and demonstrates that they are, as Bloom puts it "the good guys" who have been committed to sustainable practices for years.
Bloom added: "We're learning as we go along and hopefully we'll win the confidence of customers."
The future of organic textiles and apparel materials
As the textile and apparel industries continue to evolve towards more sustainable practices, the future of organic materials looks promising. The group’s discussion highlighted several key trends and areas of focus:
Organic wool: Nickson mentioned organic wool is getting attention. She claimed this fibre has significant potential for growth in the organic market and said the industry works with organisations like the UK Wool Board to promote and develop organic wool production.
Locally grown fibres: There's a rising focus on fibres such as linen and hemp which Nickson voiced could be grown more locally, reducing transportation emissions, and supporting local economies.
Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs): Stopes mentioned how the textile and apparel industry was increasingly aligning its practices with the United Nations' SDGs and while specific SDGs weren't mentioned, organic textile production can contribute to goals such as responsible consumption and production, climate action, and decent work and economic growth.
Supporting livelihoods in developing countries: Chan highlighted the importance of supporting organic cotton farmers in places like India.
All of the panellists suggested a GOTS certification offers significant benefits for fashion brands and retailers as it provides a framework for sustainability, credibility, and market expansion.
While the certification process requires substantial effort and resources, the payoff in terms of consumer trust and brand reputation can be substantial. As the industry continues to evolve, GOTS certification is likely to play an increasingly important role in shaping the future of sustainable and ethical fashion.
