While fashion brands are used to offering clothing for petite, tall or plus-size consumers, adaptive apparel for consumers with physical issues is a much less established category.

Adaptive clothing usually includes easy-to-use fastenings instead of zips and buttons and other modifications to make it easier for consumers with disabilities to wear.

Last year, GlobalData’s Niche Clothing Trends in the Global Apparel Market report described adaptive clothing as a “fast growing segment”, and estimated 1.3bn consumers are currently living with a disability that requires them to use adaptive apparel.

Earlier this month (August) Marks and Spencer (M&S) tapped into the lucrative adaptive clothing market by becoming the first UK high street store in the UK to add underwear for stoma users to its range.

Some more expensive fashion brands have been catering to this niche market for many years, such as US brand Tommy Hilfiger which first launched its adaptive range in 2016.

But it is only recently that value fashion retailers and high-street names have explored adaptive options, which means demand is still outstripping the number of options available.

Ellie Brown, a Manchester Met fashion graduate, started her business – Recondition – after temporarily needing a wheelchair and finding herself frustrated at the lack of accessible clothing options available.

Alongside an accessible range of clothing, due to launch later this year, Recondition also aims to build a community with consumers by hosting accessible events including catwalks and talks.

Recondition uses sustainable materials and includes adaptations such as fastenings instead of zips and buttons. Brown was also keen to ensure the placement of pockets and seams does not cause discomfort for wheelchair users.

The project has been awarded funding from Innovate UK to help bring its first products to market.

What do consumers want to see in adaptive clothing ranges?

A survey conducted by UK value fashion retailer Primark and the Research Institute for Disable Consumers earlier this year found that more than half (59%) would buy more adaptive apparel if it was available in high street retailers.

It also revealed that 62% of those living with a disability in the UK said it was difficult to find clothes they felt comfortable and happy in because of their health condition.

Brown told Just Style that its important to see some high street brands finally catering to disabled consumers.

“Most brands remain too afraid or uninterested to even attempt an adaptive range so we shouldn’t discourage the first few high-street brands making that move,” she said.

However, she added that there were already lessons to be learned.

What mistakes do fashion brands make when launching inclusive clothing?

“You can see the mistakes being made where, in my opinion, brands are not involving the consumer in the product development or its wider launch,” she explained. “It’s important to consult them on every step of the process.”

Brown cited the recent launch of Primark’s adaptive range of lingerie as an example.

In January 2024, Primark created its first adaptive lingerie range, which included a range of briefs and bras designed with fasteners. The products are now available in 64 Primark stores - either in store or via the retailer’s Click and Collect service.

“By not stocking it in all stores, it is making it in accessible and gatekeeping the product from people outside of big cities,” Brown noted.

However, Brown describes the way that M&S launched its stoma underwear as a real success story.

The knickers include an internal pocket to support individuals living with a stoma and the idea for the design originated from M&S employees living with stomas. The colleagues sent the suggestion via the retailer’s ‘Straight to Stuart’ employee suggestion scheme.

The employees were then asked to trial and test the products throughout the development process.

Jiggy Sohi, clothing and home colleague at M&S explained: “For years I have known there is a real gap in the market for stoma knickers and last year I built up the confidence to do something about it.

"I’m overjoyed that M&S are now the first high street retailer to launch stoma knickers.”

Libby Herbert, CEO at charity Colostomy UK, added: “The launch of this inclusive product signifies a significant step forward in addressing the need for accessible underwear options for those living with stoma's and will enable them to shop with confidence and ease for the first time on the British high street.”

What next for adaptive fashion?

“When brands involve the consumer, amazing change can be made,” Brown said, praising the retailer for working with stoma users and experts at Colostomy UK. “The response has been overwhelmingly positive. The key is involving the people you are designing for.”

Since the launch of its first range of adaptive lingerie earlier this year, Primark has more recently announced a partnership with disability advocate Victoria Jenkins with more adaptive clothing expected to follow.

Jenkins said in a statement: “By Primark recognising the needs of the disabled and chronic sick community and acting upon it in such a meaningful way is going to be life changing for millions of people, and I am excited to work with Primark to bring this to life.”