2024 has been a rollercoaster year for Authentic Brands Group-owned British fashion retailer Ted Baker, which went into administration in March.
However, the tides appear to be turning as just weeks after its last UK stores closed, Authentic has announced it will relaunch the brand this autumn.
Its longstanding US partner United Legwear & Apparel Co. (ULAC), which has other partnerships with the likes of sports brands Skechers, Puma North America, and fashion brand DKNY, will be taking charge of the brand's online relaunch across the UK, Europe, US and Canada.
This follows on from ULAC being chosen to design and manufacture the Ted Baker branded men’s sportswear, golf and denim categories and be responsible for all wholesale and concession shops, as well as operating Tedbaker.us and Tedbaker.ca for the US and Canada.
ULAC had not responded to Just Style's request for comment at the time of going to press, however the company's chief operating officer Chris Volpe shared at the time of the announcement that his company's "goal is to create a seamless and engaging online shopping experience that exceeds the expectations of Ted Baker’s customers".
He was also keen to reiterate his confidence in the relaunch being able to "reignite excitement for the brand and set the stage for a bright and prosperous future”.
Authentic did not respond to Just Style's comment request at the time of writing, but shared in its official statement for the relaunch that it will offer an "exciting and refreshed online shopping experience, with an array of new collections and timeless pieces that embody Ted Baker’s signature British charm".
Just Style understands Authentic is keen for Ted Baker to have an omnichannel distribution strategy that runs across a multitude of sales channels, including department and specialty retailers, concessions, branded stores and e-commerce worldwide.
Ted Baker still has a network of partners that continue to support its success with global manufacturing and sourcing platform PDS offering product design that aims to align with Ted Baker's British heritage.
Authentic has also established partnerships with the brand’s legacy partners, KMI, Next and Mondottica, as well as newly signed partners DFS, BB Perakende (Karma) and Batra Group.
Should Authentic relaunch Ted Baker?
GlobalData retail analyst Neil Saunders tells Just Style exclusively it makes sense for Authentic to find ways to monetise Ted Baker given it still owns the brand assets.
He shares: "While Ted Baker has been through a very difficult time in the UK, the brand still has some equity and it can generate sales. The trick is to find a level and method of distribution that allow this to be done profitably."
He asserts that online in the UK and Europe is a good move as it is a way of reaching a large audience without the expense of physical stores.
It's worth noting that Ted Baker's global footprint is continuing to expand with recent store openings in Saudi Arabia and two more planned for South Africa.
Plus, the brand continues to be available across its branded retail stores in the Middle East, which is led by Al Futtaim Group.
Ted Baker is also expected to grow in Korea through a strategic partnership with Brands Universe that will design and deliver men's and women's apparel, as well as costume jewellery across regional department stores and dedicated Ted Baker concessions.
Was ULAC a good choice of partner for relaunching Ted Baker in the UK, Europe, US and Canada?
Saunders approves of Authentic's choice of partner and notes that ULAC has already got experience of running the brand, which will minimise disruption.
GlobalData head of apparel Chloe Collins agrees, adding ULAC's specialism in ecommerce makes it well placed to handle the operational side of Ted Baker's website.
But, she argues: "Low brand appeal and desire among shoppers" could be a hurdle for generating "strong online sales".
Just Style understands Authentic is in advanced discussions with a new operating partner for the UK and Europe who shares its vision and commitment to Ted Baker’s long-term growth.
How can Authentic, ULAC ensure long-term success for Ted Baker?
Saunders sees getting the brand back up and running as only a partial solution.
He asserts that longer term, Ted baker "needs to be reinvented". He also highlights there needs to be a step change in its products and styles.
Collins asserts that unless its ranges are made more relevant and fashionable, and can capture attention again, the online relaunch in the UK, Europe, US and Canada will struggle to achieve traffic.
She points out that "once brand images have been tainted, they are very hard to turn around."
As a result, she suggests that "any transformation will be harder to communicate to shoppers too with the loss of stores, as the brand has less visibility.”
However, Saunders believes ULAC does have the expertise required to reinvent and take the necessary action that will be needed to change Ted Baker's products and styles.
He states: "Fortunately, the new partner has experience in this area too, which suggests it isn’t afraid to be very hands on with the Ted Baker brand."
Why did Ted Baker go into administration?
The company’s difficulties began in December 2018, when founder and former CEO Ray Kelvin had to step down in March 2019 after he was accused of “forced hugging”, as well as other inappropriate comments and behaviour.
Rachel Osbourne was appointed CEO in March 2020 but faced fresh obstacles such as the shift to more casual styles due to the pandemic as well as a general slowdown in apparel spending.
In October 2022 Ted Baker was acquired by licensing business Authentic Brands Group (ABG) for £211m (US$253.5m). It appointed Dutch company AARC in April 2023 to run the brand’s European stores and e-commerce business. However, by February 2024, Authentic had cut ties after AARC reneged on its financial commitments.
In March 2024 No Ordinary Designer Label (NODL) – which trades under the Ted Baker brand – worked with independent director Russell Downs to place the UK and European retail and e-commerce businesses into administration under Teneo with the last of Ted Baker's UK stores closing last month (August).
