The study shed light on the potential unintended consequences of clothing rental services. It aimed to uncover the “hidden effects” associated with the choice to rent rather than own clothes.  

The research delved into both the overt and subtle sustainability challenges posed by consumers engaging with access-based services (ABS) in the fashion sector.  

The study’s initial findings, which were drawn from 31 interviews with ABS users, unveiled both beneficial and detrimental rebound effects, highlighting the significance of who benefits (the individual or others) as well as psychological impacts.

A subsequent segmentation analysis involving 499 ABS users identified five distinct consumer profiles, each demonstrating varying degrees of positive or negative rebound effects.  

Two psychological patterns were linked to increased consumption behaviours that negate environmental benefits. 

This study challenges the prevailing notion that clothing rentals inherently promote sustainable consumption patterns. Instead, it reveals that a significant subset of rental customers may actually consume more, thereby exacerbating environmental harm. 

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In defining “behaviours,” the study considers both the actions taken and intentions to purchase within the same category or across different categories as influenced by rental usage in apparel. The research includes an examination of both direct and indirect effects stemming from rental adoption.  

For instance, while renting clothes might reduce direct purchases (a positive direct rebound effect), it could also lead to increased spending in other areas due to saved funds (an indirect negative rebound). 

To investigate these rebound effects, the researchers embarked on a two-part study beginning with qualitative research that integrated desk reviews, in-depth interviews, and case studies focused on clothing.  

The aim was to understand how consumer behaviour changes in relation to accessed clothing items (direct rebound) and other goods or services (indirect rebound). 

The study’s focus on the apparel industry is intentional given its significant impact on sustainability issues and it being recognised as one of the world’s most polluting industries due to its disposal and fibre production practices.  

Despite this, clothing renters often do not cite sustainability as their primary motivation for renting instead of buying; however, renting could potentially offer a greener alternative by extending the functional lifespan of garments and minimising waste from unsold stock, the research noted. 

The fashion sector is particularly susceptible to negative rebound effects due to insatiable consumer demand for newness at low costs, which are characteristics representative of fast fashion. Yet there’s also an opportunity to mitigate these effects by steering consumers away from primary production processes. 

While this study provides valuable insights for the clothing market, its findings also prompt further research in other sectors where different dynamics might influence consumer behaviour, such as utilitarian versus fashion-driven motives in renting items such as ski jackets versus gala attire. Such contexts may also alter the prevalence of indirect positive or negative rebound effects. 

Last year Just Style examined the growing number of apparel brands setting up their own fashion resale platforms or offering a rental service for their garments.